Izushi: The Little Kyoto of Tajima

Izushi, located in Toyooka City, Hyogo Prefecture, is a former castle town that once flourished around Izushi Castle.The town still retains the atmosphere of the Edo period and is often called the “Little Kyoto of Tajima,” designated as a National Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.

Many people visit Izushi in combination with nearby famous sightseeing spots such as Kinosaki Onsen (Hot Spring) and the Takeda Castle Ruins.

Currently, Izushi is attracting significant attention because it is home to the Izushi Eiraku-kan theater, a filming location for the movie “Kokuho” (National Treasure).With the huge success of the movie, there is a growing number of tourists visiting Izushi on a “pilgrimage” to see the filming locations.

Izushi Castle Ruins

The only castle in Tajima, one castle per province

Izushi Castle is a Hirayama-style castle (built on a hill in a plain) constructed at the foot of Mt. Ariko in 1604 by Koide Yoshihide.The castle town was developed alongside the construction of the castle, creating the foundation for the current streets of Izushi.

After passing through the red Torii gates of the Inari Shrine at the highest level, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the castle town from the top.

Shinkoro Clock Tower

The Clock Tower Said to Be the Oldest in Japan

The Shinkoro was built in 1871 during the Meiji period as a turret to tell the time by beating a drum. In 1881, it took its current form as a clock tower and is the oldest clock tower in Japan. It is about 13 meters high, stands out within the townscape, and is a symbolic presence of Izushi.

Izushi Eiraku-kan

The Theater That Was the Center of Popular Culture in Tajima

Izushi Eiraku-kan is the oldest theater in the Kinki region, having opened in 1901. Kabuki, Shinpa-geki (modern plays), and Yose (vaudeville) are performed here. On days when there are no performances, it is open to the general public and can be toured for a fee.
It was once closed due to the spread of television and the diversification of entertainment, but eventually, the desire for its revival grew, and it was reopened in 2008 after 44 years.
Old hand-painted signs, graffiti on the pillars, and scratches remain as they were at the time of its closing in the Meiji era, allowing you to feel the history of Izushi Eiraku-kan.

Eiraku-kan Kabuki is a stage production featuring the Kabuki actor Ainosuke Kataoka, and has become a major event in Izushi.

On this day, some kind of performance was in progress, and I was unable to tour the interior.

Furthermore, since this Eiraku-kan became a filming location for the movie “Kokuho” starring Ryo Yoshizawa, many tourists were visiting with that as their goal. Voices of disappointed tourists could be heard upon learning that it was a private booking day for a performance. As if to accelerate this boom, Izushi is decorating the town with Izushi Eiraku-kan banners and movie “Kokuho” posters.

Movie posters for “Kokuho” and other items were on display at the entrance of the Kodo District Community Center.

Takuan-dera [Sukyo-ji Temple]

The Temple Rebuilt by Priest Takuan

The temple was rebuilt in 1616 by Priest Takuan, who is famous for inventing Takuan (traditional yellow pickled daikon radish), and it flourished as the family temple for the lords of the Izushi Domain. Many items related to Priest Takuan remain in the temple, including a garden he designed and the “Yumemi-no-Kane” (Dream-seeing Bell). It is located at the Kimon (the unlucky northeastern gate) of the castle to serve as a spiritual protector of Izushi. The temple also hosts events such as making Takuan pickles together with local children.

Izushi Sobas

Sora-soba Served on Small Izushi-yaki Ceramic Plates

The representative local dish of Izushi is Izushi Soba. There are many soba restaurants in Izushi, but on the recommendation of a lodging owner who is from Izushi, I went to a restaurant called “Takuan.” I was told that the restaurant is operated by the descendants of Priest Takuan.

The characteristic of Izushi Soba is the unique style of eating many small portions of Soba noodles (buckwheat noodles) served on small Izushi-yaki porcelain plates. This style was established around the end of the Edo period. A set of five plates is considered one serving, and it is enjoyed with condiments and dashi broth from a Tokkuri (ceramic pitcher). Condiments include raw egg, Tororo (grated yam), green onions, Daikon oroshi (grated radish), and Wasabi.

The Izushi-yaki used for the plates is a rare Hakuji (white porcelain) in Japan, made from a pure white raw material called Kakitani pottery stone, boasting an overwhelming whiteness.

Izushi-yaki is also on display and for sale at the “Izushi Tourism Center.”

Kuromame (Black Bean) Gelato from Kano Farm Uchibori Store. Near the Izushi Tourism Center, there are many benches and a row of shops where you can enjoy sweets and other treats.

Izushi Shuzo

A Long-established Sake Brewery Founded in 1708

This is a Sake brewery (Japanese rice wine producer) that has continued since 1708. The signature brand “Sasadzuru” is derived from “Sasa no Tsuyu,” which is another name for Sake, and “Rakurakuen,” the villa of Lord Sengoku, the lord of the Izushi Domain. Sasadzuru, made using traditional methods, can be sampled inside the store. The “Sake Cellar Concert,” held periodically, is a famous event in Izushi.